卸妝油傷皮膚? - 保養
By Zora
at 2016-03-14T20:27
at 2016-03-14T20:27
Table of Contents
原文恕刪
現在的卸妝產品大致分為無泡沫式的「油性卸妝品」及「水性卸妝品」
先來講一下油性的卸妝產品
市面上油性的卸妝品很多,像是卸妝霜、卸妝乳、卸妝油
而其實卸妝產品的能力與油脂的比例有絕對關係
在所有油性的產品之中,卸妝油的卸妝效果是最佳的
因為其含有的油脂比例達到80~100%,也是目前市場上的主流產品
而卸妝乳、卸妝乳霜則是添加比一般保養霜還要高的油脂比例做成的乳霜
其卸妝能力比較弱是因為油脂含量大約在20~45%之間
所以乳、霜類產品要佐以按摩的動作或者增加卸妝的時間
但有些人會認為卸妝油的卸妝能力過強會傷害皮膚
或者堅持卸妝乳、卸妝霜比較溫和安全
其實我們要評論一項產品不能用統稱去比較它的安全性,而是要用配方的架構來辨識
以卸妝油來說,它的組成成分主要為液狀油脂
而每個品牌添加的介面活性劑不等,可能在0~20%之間,作為方便水洗乳化的乳化劑
而卸妝乳霜的組成成分就比較複雜了
除了20~45%的主要卸妝油脂以外還會添加乳化劑、蠟質、保濕劑、水
這樣看下來,卸妝乳、霜所使用配方的複雜度與對肌膚的風險都會比卸妝油來的高
會有卸妝油比較傷皮膚的傳聞可能是因為卸妝油都是以水洗乳化,
因為介面活性劑的關係比較容易刺激眼睛黏膜
而卸妝乳因為有先做了一道擦掉卸妝乳的步驟,所以沒有明顯眼黏膜刺激感
還有就是市面上太多劣質卸妝油的削價競爭
使用低純度的油脂與介面活性劑搭配就會對皮膚的刺激性提高
而如果使用優良品牌的卸妝油還會感到不適
問題可能是因為你沒有充分清潔
基本上使用完卸妝產品都一定要用泡沫再次清潔臉部
如果沒把卸妝油的油脂成分洗乾淨就會造成過敏長痘問題
而水性的卸妝產品
因為有著高濃度的介面活性劑,所以對油脂的汙垢有極強的乳化、融化作用
再配合助溶劑協助滲入皮膚,所以卸除力很強大
不過水性卸妝產品因為去脂力過強
所以長期使用下來皮膚的脂質會過度流失
常常造成皮脂分泌不足的眼唇區極度乾燥或起過敏反應
去脂力過強加上助溶劑滲透協助還會使得角質提早老化
長期下來可能會造成皮膚乾燥無光澤、膚色黯沉、黑頭粉刺增多
總之每個產品有利有弊
自己評估適合自己的卸妝產品並正確使用才是最重要的
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