底妝控都想問的: 粉底液到底傷不傷肌膚? - 粉底
By Todd Johnson
at 2012-10-14T00:29
at 2012-10-14T00:29
Table of Contents
有附圖片的網誌版:http://dcrl.pixnet.net/blog/post/52112488
單獨閱讀文字版也OK的隱形分隔線(其實是懶得用)
一直以來,我被灌輸的觀念就是使用粉底液比使用粉餅
更能有效的貼合肌膚,妝感也會比粉狀的粉餅來的更美,
加上粉底液/粉底霜的選擇性也比粉餅更琳瑯滿目,所以在
今年以前,化妝年齡已經接近10年的我,是粉底液的愛用者。
後來是看到一位網友大力宣導不要再使用粉底液的文章,
我才開始審思到底粉底液這東西,對肌膚好不好??
那位網友是讀了吉木伸子醫生的著作,才有此感,後來我也去
買了這位醫生所出的書籍,這邊單就吉木醫生對粉底(液狀)產品來
加以敘說囉!!
書名: 原來,皮膚科名醫都這樣保養 (售價:300元)
乾燥肌膚必須使用液狀粉底,您一直這麼認為嗎??
基本上就是說,因為"粉底"是粉狀的,必須要和水做結合變成液狀的粉底產品,
因此會添加大量的界面活性劑,長期接觸界面活性劑,會讓皮膚變得比較差。
吉木醫生話是說得比較保守,之前那位網友是說只要是有顏色並且液狀的產品
(包含有顏色的隔離霜/飾底乳等)都是含有界面活性劑,因此很傷皮膚。
接下來是吉木醫生對於常見的四大類型底妝產品做出的評論。
【液狀粉底】:因為需要把粉狀顆粒溶解到水裡面,所以需要添加
界面活性劑讓兩者融合,對皮膚的刺激性較強。
【霜狀粉底】:因為多加了滋潤的油脂,刺激性比粉底液更強。
這是讓我最驚訝的,粉底霜居然比粉底液更刺激??
在我的觀念中,粉底霜感覺更滋潤,應該是對皮膚更溫和才對吧?
【膏狀粉底】:吉木醫生似乎對膏狀粉底還比較不排斥,
膏狀粉底添加的界面活性劑或是防腐劑比較少,但是吉木
醫生說膏狀粉底不容易脫妝?? 我覺得膏狀粉底因為很乾所以
更容易脫妝耶....
如果是很滋潤的膏狀粉底,那吉木醫生可能就不會推薦了,
因為很順滑好推必定是加了許多的油脂阿。
【粉狀粉底】: 吉木醫生最推薦使用的底妝產品(蜜粉她也推薦)因為
是乾粉狀的,所以添加的界面活性劑比粉底液或是粉底霜相對來的
少上許多,比較不刺激肌膚。
但是如果是粉凝霜(濕潤的粉餅)就不是歸類在這範圍裡面了。
先來說說我自己由粉底液愛用者改為只使用粉餅以及蜜粉之後
皮膚的變化好了。
當然,我的皮膚沒有因此變得更吹彈可破、晶瑩剔透,或許本來我的
膚質底子就不好了,加上長期糟蹋它(使用錯誤的保養方式、產品等),
但是,我的確深刻的感受到,我的皮膚變得比較穩定了,卸妝之後比較少
會發生敏感泛紅的現象,以前使用粉底液卸妝之後皮膚都會有點紅紅的,
不過自從使用粉餅跟蜜粉之後狀況就減輕很多。
還有,我覺得最重要的一點,也是我以前的盲點,那就是,
粉餅真的不會比粉底液保濕效果來的差。
皮膚乾的時候,如果用到不對盤的粉底液,就會覺得好像皮膚的水分
一直在被吸乾,乾到我覺得細紋都要爬滿我的臉了,但是如果相同是皮膚
乾的狀態下使用粉餅,雖然皮膚覺得還是乾乾的,嚴重程度卻不會加劇,
也就是說我覺得使用粉餅不會一直吸走我臉上的水分。
同時還有一點是讓我最驚奇的,以往我使用粉底液,常常都是完妝
後的幾個小時內妝感很美,但是一整天下來,多少都會脫妝浮粉,
但是現在使用粉餅(當然也要慎選適合的粉餅),我脫妝的慘劇卻大幅
減少了,這是我今天要寫此心得才猛然發現的改變!!
在今年之前,我幾乎只要使用粉底液一整天,到晚上總是會脫妝變的
醜醜的,但是使用粉餅,這樣的狀況卻減少很多,以至於讓我忘記
以前那段悲慘的脫妝人歲月。
所以現在的我,幾乎一個月使用不到一次粉底產品,手邊粉底液/霜
的數量也由全盛時期的十幾罐丟到只剩一罐。
為什麼只留一罐?? 或許是我無法斷然割捨對於粉底液的感情吧?
畢竟粉底液跟粉餅使用起來的妝感是不盡相同的,粉底液用起來
就是很貼膚(但是也因為如此更容易傷害肌膚?),以後我還是會想
買粉底液,不過它就被我歸類為"特殊場合用"的產品,可能買不多,
手邊固定只有1罐這樣,如果需要粉餅做不到的妝感,我才會使用它。
除了粉餅之外,吉木醫生也說過,鬆粉狀/餅狀產品
是補防曬的最佳利器,不管是任何蜜粉或是粉餅,就算沒有
標防曬係數,都擁有可以折射紫外線的功能,所以除了擦防曬之外,
定時的補擦粉狀產品也是很重要的,也因此我開始邁向蜜粉控的路線...
蜜粉我因為用的速度比粉餅來的快很多,補妝幾乎都是補蜜粉,
所以我比較敢買,粉餅我用太慢了,才幾塊就讓我用得很吃力了阿~
這是吉木醫生推薦的上妝順序,不過我是習慣在防曬後先擦一層質地細緻的
蜜粉,這樣可以吸附防曬的油脂,讓等一下擦粉餅時比較不容易結塊,
同時妝容可以維持更久。
步驟1: 擦化妝水與精華液
步驟2: 擦具有保濕效果的乳霜
步驟3: 等10分鐘讓保養品吸收
步驟4: 擦粉狀粉底(粉餅/蜜粉)
之前對我來說,粉底液傷不傷肌膚像是個都市傳說,人人言之鑿鑿,
但是又拿不出一個可靠的說法,如今有醫生跳出來現身說法,總算也是
破了這個長期的疑問。
但是!! 我還是想問,會不會有其他的說法,來反駁粉底液是傷肌膚
的這樣說法呢?? 畢竟單位皮膚科醫生提出的說法,往往好像會有
其他醫生不這麼認為?如果真的不傷肌膚,那就真的是happy ending了,
我們繼續開心的買,廠商繼續開心的賺對吧?
--
Tags:
粉底
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