彩妝色論-底妝篇 - 美妝
By Aaliyah
at 2016-03-02T21:33
at 2016-03-02T21:33
Table of Contents
Hi~大家好 我是大沛,
好久沒有來美妝版發文了,
這次要跟大家分享簡單的彩妝色論,
由於我不是專業人士,版上有很多高手,
純粹想跟大家分享我的一點心得,
有說的不好的地方請大家見諒。
影片一開始會說明一些彩妝用的到的基本色論,
接著會示範用三原色、黑色、白色
調出corrector、底妝、bronzer、遮瑕、打亮及修容。
YouTube影片
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KfK7VSgDdU
1. 色相: 顏色的名稱
明度: 顏色的深淺(混合白色或黑色調整)
彩度: 色彩鮮艷的程度
三原色: 紅、黃、藍(原色是被創造出來的,為其他所有顏色的基本單位
配合白色、黑色可以混合出所有的顏色,螢光色不在討論範圍)
2. Corrector:
選色: 應選擇和欲遮蓋的瑕疵對比的顏色
明度: 要注意和本身膚色的明度匹配(過淺顯灰,過深顯髒)
原理: 類似濾鏡的效果,用量不應太多,
讓光能夠穿透同時反射出瑕疵的顏色和corrector的顏色,
讓人眼睛同時看到兩種顏色的光線以達到中和的效果,
不同於底妝的遮蓋原理,可以減少後續底妝的用量。
3. Foundation:
一般常說的冷色調底妝為偏紅感,暖色調底妝為偏黃感,
要小心不要和色彩學上的冷暖或者是色溫混淆。
4. 漸進式混色法: 像質因數分解一樣將顏色拆開來一個一個慢慢混合
## 綠色corrector: 混合白色、黃色得到和膚色明度匹配的鵝黃色,
再混入適量藍色直到可以用於校正自身泛紅為止
(綠色的程度依泛紅程度而定)。
## 底妝: 混合白色、黃色得到和膚色明度匹配的鵝黃色,
再混入適量紅色得到粉橘色,
最後加入藍色來cool down顏色至吻合自己膚色為止。
## 黑眼圈遮瑕: 混合適量紅色到上述底妝顏色中,
若需要更偏橘的顏色則再加入黃色即可
(綠色黑眼圈需要偏紅遮瑕膏,藍色黑眼圈需要偏橘遮瑕膏,
若是紫色黑眼圈請加入更多黃色調整至偏黃的顏色)。
## Bronzer: 混合白色、黑色得到匹配膚色明度的灰色,
之後加入黃色得到土黃色,
視需要偏紅的程度加入紅色即可得到可以用來warm up膚色的bronzer
(請用於五官迎光面)。
## 修容: 使用上述顏色混入藍色來cool down,
可以得到偏灰的修容色(請用於五官的陰影面)。
## 打亮: 加入適量白色再底妝色當中,可用於打亮T字、下巴等亮面,
若想用於膚色較不均處(例如眼下)請加入更多黃色。
希望這次的分享大家會喜歡,掰掰^^
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