眉毛修整及養眉分享 - 眉筆
By Delia
at 2015-07-23T00:36
at 2015-07-23T00:36
Table of Contents
沒有想到前一篇妝容竟然被推爆(完全嚇瘋狀態),
抱歉沒能一個個回覆,關於版友們提到的眉毛問題,
在此直接發新文分享給大家!
無音樂網誌版:http://goo.gl/SQ1eiJ
因為是以我個人的狀況去寫的,所以請參酌參考即可XD
有機會的話,下次直接抓一個身邊的犧牲者借我試妝好了~
-----以下網誌文字複製-----
感謝大家對眉毛的欣賞,剛好有版友注意到畫法改變,所以發了這篇文章分享給大家。
畫法其實跟之前寫過相同:Follow Your Natural Eyebrow
不同的原因在於:素眉的眉型改變、改善垂眉尾的問題、以及加上明確的眉峰。
所以會針對這三點跟大家分享!
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前情提要
(圖)
(借用舊圖說明)
眉毛毛會因個人體質及毛質而有所不同,
我的狀況或方式不一定適用在所有人身上,因此請斟酌參考!
狀況描述:
我的眉毛屬於毛量正常,毛質較粗黑,毛長度為眉頭短眉尾長。
生長速度算快,小雜毛頗多,需要定期修整避免雜草叢生。
-----
01 / 素眉眉型改變
我改變素眉的方式是:養眉,就是暫時放任眉毛自然生長。
以往會固定用眉刀或是小夾子拔除眉型以外的雜毛,
隨著眉型改變,有些過去被刻意修掉的地方,反而現在會需要他來改變輪廓。
平常有保養眉毛的習慣,除了洗澡完按摩臉部時會加強眉骨部分之外,每週會使用睫毛增長液2-3次。
另外網路上也有人分享可以用去角質的方式刺激毛髮生長,但因為本身眉毛長的速度蠻快,
所以我目前沒試過這個方式,或許改天可以嘗試一下!
但是對於細軟毛質或是毛量稀少的人,不確定是否太刺激,因為我臉厚毛粗沒有這個困擾(哭)。
(圖)
但養眉也不是的完全放著不管,而是適當範圍內培養毛髮,額頭上及眼皮上等不需要的地方,還可盡情拔除~
針對我需要的眉型,我把養眉範圍設定在素眉向外推約2-3mm的區域。(ㄧ)
圖示中黑實線是我素眉的輪廓,黑虛線至實線內的白色區域就是養眉範圍。
虛線以外的地方還是會照常修整。
不過養了不代表一定會長出來(這麼簡單我何必!!)
所以這個部分只能多給他一點時間再加上緣份了...。
-
過程所需要的時間及狀況因人而異,養的差不多後,依照平常修眉的動作開始整理新夥伴。
對修眉比較不熟悉或沒有把握的人,可以先用眉筆畫出想要的形狀,保留框內的眉毛、去除框外的雜毛。
此處有個小提醒,絕對不要輕視一根眉毛的存在感!!!
以前曾經覺得眉型的某個角落只有一兩根孤零零的眉毛站在那,看起來有點尷尬就乾脆拔掉。
結果,那個角落就再也沒長出眉毛過了。
雖然眉毛可以用畫的,但是那是有毛跟沒毛的差別啊!!立體感什麼的!!!(失控)
所以請確認眉型後再下手,以免落得跟我一樣眉毛缺角(菸)。
-----
02 / 改善垂眉尾問題
垂眉尾的原因是因為尾端的眉毛太長,所以視覺上是下垂的。
以前直接把眉尾剪短,結果變成眉毛看起來像突然卡掉。
後來改善的方式有兩種:一是直接用染眉膏定型,二是刷整過眉型確認長度後再稍微修剪。
第一種方式在立體眉毛那篇提過所以不再贅述,第二種方式請參考下圖:
(圖)
Step.01 用眉刷將眉尾向上刷成平眉尾的狀態。
Step.02 觀察有哪修眉毛仍然過長以致下垂,再針對特定幾根去修剪。
-----
03 / 加上明確眉峰
仔細觀察與上次分享的曲線眉毛不同之處,會發現除了下彎的弧線是因為之前隨著眉型去描繪,
因此在該前提下垂眉不是問題而是自然眉毛的狀態,所以依照素眉的眉型自然就會化成彎彎的眉毛。
除此之外還有眉峰的存在性。
原本的素眉沒有眉峰,是後來強調出角度再加上眉尾的調整,所以讓眉型看起來有明顯的改變。
請參考以下對照圖:
01.彎彎的眉型是順著素眉弧度,所以眉尾的自然下垂造就了眉型彎曲的效果。
(圖)
02. 平眉的眉型除了不足原本下方眉毛的缺角處,加上眉峰及眉尾的改變,讓眉型有了角度、看起來會更有個性。
不過平眉只是一種妝容的選項,沒有必要性也不一定適合所有人。
(我只是基於惱羞不服輸,也因此有了這篇文章的出現XD)
(圖)
03. 對照曲線眉(橘線)及平眉(藍線)的輪廓,可以發現最大差異是在於眉尾及眉峰的地方。
Ok,自問自答Time:
Q:如果透過畫法及修眉方式就能改變,那麼養眉的作用是?
A:養眉的效果不如畫眉的明顯且立即見效,但是長久下來當眉毛漸漸長出、可以填補空缺或是增加份量時,
會讓你的眉毛減少後天加工的動作,看起來更自然,素顏的時候也是一大利器!
(圖)
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落落長分享到此,希望能幫助要需要的人!
最後附上一張朋友回傳給的修片後的日落妝照,謝謝大家!
(圖)
////
大半夜打完好想睡XDDD
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