Re: [轉錄]Re: [心得] 很刺激皮膚的"保養"行為 - 精油

※ [本文轉錄自 BeautySalon 看板]

作者: LOLIVA (蘿莉( ￣ c￣)y▂ξ) 看板: BeautySalon
標題: Re: [轉錄]Re: [心得] 很刺激皮膚的"保養"行為
時間: Thu Feb 12 13:56:00 2009




k大恕刪喔~
嗯~忙完寫paper的工作後 剛剛就把k大文中的ref.部分補充上來~
主要是補充摘要啦..
因為不是每間學校都有訂閱期刊 也不是每個版友都像我閒閒沒事做 可以查期刊~
希望有空版友別辜負k大的一番熱血~可以稍微看一下原文喔..:)

在搜尋期刊的過程中找到一個不錯的網站:
http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/mksg/srt/2002/00000008/00000001
有空可以多看看裡面的topic 相信會收穫不少才是^^

ps:對了,其中第四篇私認為似乎比較偏向建立偵測發炎的皮膚的方法耶
(太陽曝曬或使用SLS) 第三篇也是方法~

第五篇與第一篇大夥可以瞧瞧 我想應該多少可以了解k大和寶拉提及的事情...

1. "Cell Proliferation,volume 37, issue 3, June 2004, page 221"

http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/cgi-bin/fulltext/118794300/PDFSTART

摘要:
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil, chiefly composed of linalyl acetate
(51%) and linalool (35%), is considered to be one of the mildest of known
plant essential oils and has a history in wound healing. Concerns are
building about the potential for irritant or allergenic skin reactions
with the use of lavender oil. This study has demonstrated that lavender
oil is cytotoxic to human skin cells in vitro (endothelial cells and
fibroblasts) at a concentration of 0.25% (v/v) in all cell types tested
(HMEC-1,HNDF and 153BR). The major components of the oil, linalyl acetate
and linalool, were also assayed under similar conditions for their
cytotoxicity. The activity of linalool reflected that of the whole oil,
indicating that linalool may be the active component of lavender oil.
Linalyl acetate cytotoxicity was higher than that of the oil itself,
suggesting suppression of its activity by an unknown factor in the oil.
Membrane damage is proposed as the possible mechanism of action.


2.有此一說：(k大提及的附錄之一到三)
「對敏感性肌膚來說，薰衣草是最常被使用也是最安全的精油，中間省略~
至但是香味是用來聞的，不是用來擦的.
---->我想這應該是寶拉的話~ 有興趣版友可以翻閱書籍~
或者點一下下列網頁~
http://www.cosmeticscop.com/ingredient_dictionary.aspx?lid=518




: 之二、
: 「其中「樟腦」是反刺激物，反刺激物會誘發局部的皮膚發炎反應來減
: 　輕深部或鄰近的發炎，以發炎換另一種發炎。反刺激物對皮膚不好，
: 　不論什麼原因造成的皮膚刺激或發炎，都會破壞皮膚的癒合能力和發
: 　炎反應。（出處：Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Pharmacology,
: 　November-December 2000, pages 358-371）這些不好的結果也許肉眼
: 　看不出來，也不一定會造成紅腫，但只要搽拭這些刺激性物質，皮膚
: 　的傷害就會發生，日積月累。(出處：Skin Research and Technology,
: 　November 2001, pages 227-237)。」
: 反刺激物的存在，或多或少也說明了薰衣草常被用來當紓緩、舒敏產品
: 成分的原因。


3. Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology 2000;13:358-371

http://content.karger.com/ProdukteDB/produkte.asp?Aktion=
ShowAbstract&ArtikelNr=29944&Ausgabe=226598&ProduktNr=224194

摘要:
This study analyses the ability of four non-invasive techniques
(laser Doppler velocimetry, evaporimetry, chromametry and corneometry)
to discriminate between irritant and non-irritant products, when
compared to appropriate controls, and to detect subliminal changes
in barrier function and erythema. These changes, which remain
undetectable in the traditional visual and palpable clinical assessment,
can be used as early reactions that are followed by the development of
overt skin irritation. Laser Doppler velocimetry and evaporimetry were
good discriminators between irritant and non-irritant substances,
whereas corneometry and chromametry did not clearly distinguish
between them. Laser Doppler velocimetry and evaporimetry detected
early stages in the development of an irritant reaction before it
became visible, but chromametry was not able to detect an early
irritant response. It was concluded that non-invasive measurements
could improve the quality and relevance of data obtained from human
irritation testing, since the data they provide are objective,
quantitative and sometimes subclinical, which also allows the
concentration of a positive control to be reduced, resulting in the
induction of less skin damage in human volunteers and reducing the
ethical concerns related to the deliberate induction of an irritant
response in a 'healthy' volunteer.


4.Skin Research and Technology, November 2001, pages 227-237)

http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/mksg/srt/2001/00000007/
00000004/art00005;jsessionid=1vcf2tbu39iuh.alexandra

摘要:

We have developed a simple noninvasive method to assess inflammatory
changes in human skin, even in the absence of visible clinical
irritation. Our approach is based on a simple tape (SebutapeR)
adsorption method to recover molecular mediators of skin inflammation
(e.g., cytokines). This procedure has been used to investigate baseline
cytokine levels on skin, to assess normal skin condition and to
evaluate changes due to chemical insult, existing dermatitis, or
sun exposure. Methods:
In clinical studies, Sebutape was applied to normal appearing
uncompromised skin, as well as to compromised (diaper or heat rash),
chemically treated (sodium laurel sulfate), or sun-exposed skin.
Sebutape was applied to the skin for a 1 min collection interval.
Tapes were extracted in saline using a 10 min sonication, and the
extracts were analyzed for human interleukin-1α (IL-1α), IL-1
receptor antagonist (IL-1RA) and IL-8 using commercial immunoassay
test kits. The cytokine levels recovered from each tape extract were
normalized to total protein (TP) levels. In infant product use tests,
the severity of skin irritation (diaper and heat rash or erythema)
was also assessed using a visual grading scale. Results:
The method itself caused minimal, if any, skin damage. Additionally,
Sebutape was shown to quantitatively adsorb detectable levels of
cytokine from normal-appearing (control) or compromised
(e.g., rashed or chemically treated) skin.
In infant studies, significant increases in IL-1α levels were
found in skin exhibiting diaper rash, heat rash and erythema
compared with normal appearing control skin sites. When these results
were normalized to total protein levels recovered from each tape,
the significance was maintained. A positive correlation
(r <address><spannew id="a2"> =0.82) existed between IL-1RA levels
and diaper rash severity. Significant increases in IL-8 levels were
recovered from diaper rash versus control skin sites.
There were differences in baseline cytokine levels in normal skin
related to body site and sun exposure. The IL-1RA/IL-1α ratios for
sun-exposed skin of the face and lower leg were significantly (P<0.05)
higher (3-6-fold) than those for skin sites that typically receive
minimal sun exposure (i.e., underarm, upper leg and upper back).
There was a significant increase in IL-1α and a directional increase
in IL-8 levels in adult skin sites treated with the irritant, sodium
lauryl sulfate, even in the absence of visible skin irritation
(erythema). </spannew></address> Conclusion:
Our results demonstrate that this method is a useful noninvasive
technique for assessing skin inflammatory events. In addition,
the method is simple and easily applied in a clinical setting,
whether on infants or adults.

: 之三、
: 「在皮膚上使用檸檬烯可能會造成接觸性皮膚炎（出處：www.naturaldatabase.com
: 　; and Journal of Occupational Health, November 2006, pages 480-486）。」
: 以上資訊都單指皮膚應用上的研究，與薰衣草它領域的運用無涉，意旨非
: 在完全否定芳香療法。只是以科學的論文探究薰衣草精油以及其萃取在保
: 養領域利用上的可能性與危險性。

5.Journal of Occupational Health, November 2006, pages 480-486

http://joh.med.uoeh-u.ac.jp/e/index.html

摘要:
The purpose of this study was to assess the allergenicity of myoga
and its major volatile components. The volatile components of myoga
were analyzed by gas chromatograph (GC). They included -pinene,
-pinene and R-(+)-limonene. We performed a toxicity study of each
of the major fragrant components of myoga using acute dermal
irritation assays and the Guinea-Pig Maximization test (GPMT) in
order to probe the mechanism of allergic contact dermatitis.
In acute dermal irritation assays, -pinene, -pinene and limonene
showed positive responses at concentrations of 4%; limonene oxide
at 20% and myoga showed a positive response at concentrations of
100%. From the results of the GPMT, according to Kligman scores,
limonene oxide was identified as an extreme skin sensitizer and
myoga as a mild skin sensitizer. The results of the present study
show that R-(+)-limonene is the most important allergen amongst
the chemical components of myoga, and we consider it to be the
reason why myoga cultivators experience allergic contact dermatitis.



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